The sparkling mission. Veneto & Lombardy

A short drive later, we stop at a truly enchanting place that seems untouched by time. A centuries-old watermill, as if lifted straight from a fairy tale, stands beside a dramatic natural waterfall. Its large wooden wheel turns steadily in the crystal-clear waters of the Lierza Stream, while the gentle murmur of flowing water fills the air. Surrounded by lush greenery and the soothing sounds of nature, it is a place that inspires both peace and wonder.

The second winery we chose is perched in the higher part of the region and produces a Cartizze that has earned numerous awards. Beyond the breathtaking views, we were captivated by its silky freshness and extraordinary aromatic richness, all beautifully concentrated into a single sip.

I am beginning to think that life here is more than a place; it is a way of being. We find ourselves drawn to the historic villages, the humble trattorias, the winding scenic roads, and the family-run wineries where passion and tradition are passed down through generations.

The revelation of the day? The Prosecco grape officially no longer exists. Since 2009, the variety has been known as Glera, a change introduced to protect the geographical identity of Prosecco. Here, identity matters. It is one of the reasons why many producers proudly feature Valdobbiadene on their labels. Speaking of labels, the bottles themselves are often works of art, showcasing an impressive level of creativity and design.

CHAPTER 1

Any Time is Prosecco Time

CHAPTER 2

The Rook beats the Pawn

After winning our own battle with a generous plate of bigoli at lunch, we continued to another family-run winery to taste an excellent Asolo DOCG Brut Nature. Viticulture here is no easy task; the steep hillsides demand hard work and dedication. Yet these challenging conditions, combined with deeply rooted winemaking traditions, produce wines of remarkable character, freshness, and elegance.

The day ended in fitting style with a candlelit dinner in a nearby castle. As we raised our glasses one final time, our thoughts turned to the next chapter of the journey.

Tomorrow, Shakespeare awaits.

CHAPTER 3

Verona

Verona has something for everyone: the Romans built it, noble families embellished it, Shakespeare immortalized it, and wine lovers continue to celebrate it. Here, you can admire the grand Arena, wander through elegant piazzas, visit Juliet's famous balcony, and even rub her right breast for good luck. I'm hoping a little of that good fortune follows me all the way to next Sunday's card game. I might even open a magnum of Prosecco.

Or perhaps our next destination deserves the credit. Our romantic room in the heart of the city provides the perfect base for a leisurely afternoon stroll with a local guide, followed by an elegant dinner in one of Verona's historic restaurants. The dining rooms, adorned with magnificent frescoes, transformed the meal into a journey through Veronese elegance. Painted walls, golden lighting, and subtle references to the world of opera created the atmosphere of a refined salon where art, history, and gastronomy come together in perfect harmony.

A risotto made with Amarone seemed the obvious choice. One of Verona's signature dishes, it combines Vialone Nano rice, finely chopped onion, and rich stock with the deep, velvety character of the region's most celebrated wine. And before you ask, no, we're taking the evening off from drinking wine.

As we walked back to our room, Verona seemed to glow from within. Warm amber lights illuminated the ancient stone buildings, casting a golden sheen across elegant squares and narrow cobbled streets. The softly lit Arena dominated the scene like a stage set for a grand performance, while historic palaces and church façades emerged from the darkness with timeless grace. In those quiet evening hours, the city felt less like a destination and more like a living work of art.

CHAPTER 4

Amarone & Lazise

Amarone is produced using a unique technique known as appassimento. After harvest, selected grapes, primarily Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella, are laid out to dry for months on racks or in well-ventilated lofts. As the grapes slowly lose water, their sugars, aromas, and flavours become intensely concentrated. The result is a wine of remarkable complexity, revealing layers of dried fruit, tobacco, black pepper, and intriguing balsamic and menthol notes.

Upon arriving at the winery, we were struck by a sense of peace and tranquillity, as well as by the seamless blend of history and modernity. The estate is centred around an ancient villa dating back to the twelfth century, carefully restored and transformed into a magnificent winery. The original stonework, elegant furnishings, and historic floors all bear witness to the villa's long and fascinating past.

After touring the cellar, we were intrigued to discover the extensive use of French oak barriques, a reminder of how international influences have become part of local winemaking traditions. The tasting took place on a panoramic terrace overlooking the vineyards and rolling hills beyond.

There, the Amarone truly impressed us. Deep, intense, and extraordinarily persistent, it unfolded layer after layer of flavour with every sip. Rich yet elegant, powerful yet refined, it is easy to understand why Amarone is considered one of Italy's greatest wines. For us, it was undoubtedly one of the highlights of the journey.

CHAPTER 5

Curtis Francae

The winery we visited was both sophisticated and steeped in history. Descending into the cellar felt like entering a cool, silent sanctuary where thousands of bottles rested patiently during the lengthy ageing process required for Franciacorta. Soft lighting, the scent of stone and wine, and the quiet rhythm of maturation created an atmosphere of patience, precision, and craftsmanship.

Here, the second fermentation takes place in the bottle, a process that demands both time and dedication. The reward is a wine of refinement and complexity. Compared with Champagne, we found Franciacorta to be slightly softer and more fruit-driven, while retaining impressive depth. We particularly enjoyed the delicate aromas of bread crust, citrus, and ripe orchard fruit. An excellent choice indeed.

By late afternoon, we were back in Verona. Now a far more pressing question occupies our minds:

Will all the bottles we bought actually fit into our luggage?

Inside, gleaming stainless-steel tanks stand alongside generations of winemaking tradition. The scent of freshly pressed grapes fills the air, while modern technology carefully preserves the freshness, purity, and delicate fruit character for which Prosecco is renowned. Among the wines we tasted, we were particularly taken with an Extra Brut whose vibrant notes of green apple and aromatic white peach were both refreshing and elegant.

The landing in Venice yesterday was smooth, but a little windy. I suppose it was the breath of the Dolomites welcoming us to northern Italy.

We had decided to begin our journey in the land of Prosecco, where endless vineyards cascade over sunlit hillsides and produce one of the world's most celebrated sparkling wines. What better way to start the day than with a smile? At our charming relais, Prosecco is even served at breakfast. As the local saying goes, the hills make the wine, but Prosecco creates the smiles. It seems a fitting motto for the day ahead.

I have a feeling there will be plenty of bubbly today. Before setting off, we linger over a quick coffee while admiring the sea of vines stretching across the landscape. It is easy to understand why Venetian nobles once chose these gentle hills to build their country estates. In fact, our beautiful accommodation is one of them, a reminder of the area's long-standing allure.

Now we are ready to begin our tour with the satisfying pop of a cork, that joyful little explosion that releases not only sparkling wine but also a sense of celebration. Needless to say, we chose to visit small, family-run wineries. There is certainly no shortage of them here; around every bend in the road, another cellar seems to appear.

And no, we did not choose Prosecco for breakfast today.

The morning began under grey skies and a light drizzle, but the clouds soon parted as we stepped outside. Ready and eager for another day of exploration, cameras in hand and imaginary explorer's hats firmly in place, we set off for Bassano del Grappa.

Our first stop was the town's famous bridge, celebrated for its elegant wooden structure designed by Andrea Palladio and for its enduring connection to the Alpini. This time, however, I'll spare you the history lesson.

Our second destination was rather unusual. At the heart of the historic centre lies a giant marble chessboard that springs to life every two years. Performers, knights on horseback, flag throwers, musicians, and living chess pieces transform the square into a spectacular historical pageant. For one magical evening, reality seems to blur with fantasy, and visitors may feel as though they have wandered into their own version of Alice in Wonderland.

Silent morning. No Prosecco at breakfast today.

Our driver is here, punctual as ever. We are ready to set off, though this time we left our explorer's hats behind, a decision we would soon regret under the unrelenting sunshine by the lake.

Lake Garda is little more than thirty minutes away, although traffic slows us down somewhat. As it turns out, we should have packed comfortable walking shoes rather than worrying about hats. The historic town is enclosed by remarkably well-preserved medieval walls, and its centre is a maze of narrow cobbled lanes lined with colourful houses, charming boutiques, gelaterias, wine shops, and inviting cafés. These ancient streets tell stories of a glorious past, but after a few hours of wandering we could not help wishing for softer footwear.

A waiter in a local bar shared a joke with us. Judging by his delivery, he has probably told it a thousand times:

"Scusi, where's the old town?"

"Just keep walking."

"How far?"

"Until you stop every five metres to take a photo."

And indeed, that is exactly what happened.

After a quick takeaway lunch, we are eager to discover Valpolicella, the picturesque wine region nestled in the hills north of Verona, renowned for its vineyards, historic villages, and exceptional red wines. It is the home of Amarone, Ripasso, and Recioto. Needless to say, we have come for the Amarone, a wine often mentioned in the same breath as Barolo and Brunello.

This region produces an impressive variety of wines: the whites Lugana, Custoza, and Soave, as well as the red Bardolino. However, as devoted fans of traditional-method sparkling wines, we simply could not miss the iconic region of Franciacorta, historically known as Curtes Francae.

On our way to this kingdom of vineyards, we made a stop in Sirmione for a boat ride around its magnificent peninsula. The excursion offered an enchanting perspective of Lake Garda. Elegant villas nestled among cypresses and olive trees created a picture-perfect setting, while the crystal-clear waters reflected the colours of the late summer sky.

From the boat, we could admire the ruins of a Roman villa perched dramatically above the lake, its ancient stone walls seeming to emerge directly from the cliffs. Yet we had come to witness a rather curious natural phenomenon: Sirmione's famous thermal springs. Remarkably, they are visible from the surface, bubbling up from the depths as a reminder of the geothermal currents that have made the town one of Italy's most renowned spa destinations.

Lunch was taken at an elegant restaurant in the heart of the Franciacorta region. Naturally, it was time for bubbles again. The wine displayed everything one hopes to find in a great Franciacorta: fine, delicate, and persistent effervescence, accompanied by freshness and remarkable elegance.

Private transfers upon arrival and departure will be be arranged in acccordance to flight/train schedules.

Suitable for individuals and groups

Being a tour focused on wines we advise opting for a car/minivan/minibus with a driver

Included services but will be tailored for you:

• adding a day in the Trentino-Alto Adige region (and tasting some Trento DOC)

• visiting the Sigurtà Park

• visiting lemon groves

• cycling the Garda trails

You might wish to consider:

• Transfers to / from the airports of Milan or Venice

• Accomodation at selected hotels

• Restaurant bookings

• Personal driver - no worries for you

• Visit of the mentioned wineries

• A private boat ride around the Sirmione peninsula